The objective was simple, go explore the Gaspe Peninsula and
Chic-Choc mountains by bike and in doing so,
learn how to travel in sub freezing temperatures. My weapon of choice for the trip would be a
Salsa Ti Mukluk configured for winter conditions, a bike that I knew was
capable of dealing with the whole range of conditions I was likely to
encounter. As a long distance traveler,
I had already learned to embrace the philosophy of ultra light travel and this
trip would be no different. The
challenge would be learning how to use a bikepacking setup that was capable of
carrying a complete winter setup, something I had never done before. A custom set of winter bags from Porcelain
Rocket easily solved the problem.
The Gaspe is a peninsula that is located in the Canadian
Provence of Quebec. Its northern border
is formed by the St. Lawrence Seaway and its southern border by Baie des
Chaleur. The Gaspe encompasses more than
11,571 square miles of land, which includes miles of sandy and rugged
coast. The interior of the peninsula
contains pristine alpine lakes, still covered in snow, as well as the Chic-Choc
mountains. The Chic-Choc's are located
in the northeast portion of the peninsula and are an actual extension of the
Appalachian mountains. They are a world
famous location for winter skiing, summer hiking and most importantly, snow
mobile trails.
The entire Gaspe is ringed and crisscrossed with a network
of groomed, marked and mapped snow mobile trails. Since the area is known for its late winter
snow, I felt that this would be a fantastic place to explore and learn my
winter skills. Using the Mukluk, I would
be prepared for any and all conditions, but what I really wanted was snow.
I left my hotel in Fort Kent Maine in freezing temperatures,
strong winds, and flurries. After
crossing the border, I took a moment to ponder what exactly I was trying to
do. To say that I was cold would be a
complete and utter understatement – I was freezing cold and wondering if I had
lost my head. Could I really endure
three weeks of travel in conditions like this or worse? I had been in these types of temperatures
earlier in the year when I was skiing and back-country camping in Norway, but I
had never done anything like this by bike.
In an attempt to manage the issue of sweat and moisture, I
started the trip with very little clothing; just a wool base layer and my
soft-shell jacket on top, and tights and cycling knickers down below. The raw temperature along with the howling
winds definitely conspired to shake my confidence, but instead of giving in, I
simply put my head down and road harder.
The result was much needed warmth as my body began the process of
generating heat. Stopping to rest and
eat snacks was a painful process and one that would repeat itself several times
a day over the course of my 17-day trip.